A Toast to Tea
Although
we confess ourselves entranced by the wonders of wine, tea
remains the world's oldest and, after plain water, most
popular beverage.
Tea
connoisseurs believe that more nuances of flavor can be
discovered in a discerning cup than in a velvety vintage,
and point in their defense to the fact that while the grape
has more than 3,000 varietals, there are some 10,000 types
of tea.
In
addition, while the year's harvest in the vineyard promises
future rewards, tea is meant to be consumed promptly; the
fields offer no guarantee that the next season's plucking
will provide leaves of equally exquisite flavor.
James
Norwood Pratt, author of The Wine Bibber's Bible,
ultimately chose tea as his elixir of choice, and twelve
years of "cupping" teas daily has failed to dampen his desire
for more. "Tea is quiet," he says. "It is the subtlest taste
a tongue can register. Beyond this, tea is soothing, stimulating,
restoring."
It
is heartening to learn that, despite the intensive labor
required, many tea growers are reverting to the orthodox
manufacture of tea, especially in Nilgiri, Darjeeling and
Assam in India, as well as in many areas of China. By avoiding
the "CTC," or "cut, tear and curl" method that produces
the uniform pellets suited to tea bags, orthodox manufacture
provides a whole, unbroken leaf, which in the proverbial
"agony of the leaves" unfolds in the cup with the grace
of a great ballerina and provides pure, ambrosial flavors.
In
much of the world, the United States in particular, legendary
and rare teas once were the subject matter for "tea tales,"
the flavors of these leaves only available to the imagination.
However, many exquisite teas now are available to the connoisseur
in limited quantities, thanks to the opening of trade with
China as well as the burgeoning free-market trade in India
and Sri Lanka. As a result, an era of tea connoisseurship
has commenced.
Should
you choose to follow this path, it is important to begin
by selecting only loose-leaf teas. Give consideration to
the oolongs, especially to Ti Kwan Yin, which is China's
finest. Progress next to the richer Qimuns (Keemuns), which
are known for their gorgeous red colors, smooth, silky tastes
and heartier flavors. Eschew milk or sugar with either of
the above (these condiments are perfect with Assams and
some Ceylons), and bear in mind that to the dedicated tea
drinker, the only way to determine the truest flavors is
to taste teas in their purest states. Having progressed
this far, explore green teas, which are the most delicate
of all.
As
in wine tasting, the act of "cupping" teas requires a careful,
considered approach. After sipping the fragrant liquor,
swirl it in the back of the mouth and allow the flavor and
texture of the tea to reveal themselves. A bit of tannin
may be noticeable, as well as a texture ranging from thin
to chewy.
In general, two to five minutes suffice for the brewing
of loose-leaf teas in the oolong and black categories, although
some teas benefit from an extra minute or two. Let your
own taste be the guide, and if unsure how to proceed, taste
at intervals of one minute until perfection seems to have
been achieved.
Darjeeling,
often referred to as the Champagne of teas, can be treated
either like green or black tea. To brew it in the fashion
suited to green tea, heat spring water to 70 degrees Centigrade
and brew for one-and-one-half to two minutes. To treat Darjeeling
as a black tea, which is the general rule in Europe, brew
it in boiling water for three to five minutes.
Since
green teas are fresh and full of sweet, grassy taste of
the leaf, lower water temperatures are essential to avoid
loss of flavor or the development of a bitter taste. Even
so, the process is simple: Place a large pinch of leaves
in the pot, pour on the water and allow to brew just one
or two minutes. The tea should be served in thimble-sized
cups.
A
fine teapot aids in the enjoyment of connoisseur-quality
teas. Yixing clay teapots, priced from $3 to $100,000 (the
upper price categories are determined by age, artist and
other considerations), contribute much to the flavor of
the tea, as well as pleasing the eye and providing a contemporary
connection to ancient tea rituals.
To
discover true connoisseur teas, it is necessary to seek
out merchants who combine integrity with a genuine passion
for the leaf. We can confidently recommend the following
sources.
Our Tea Tastings
(Updated:
12/12/06)
